$$$$ — 44% ABV — 14 months
The safer bet with a line of tequilas tends to be the plata (silver, unaged). Every step proves making quality tequila isn't easy. A lot can go wrong, and so oftentimes the shorter the process the better. But perhaps that's not true.
In an attempt to return to their roots, Patrón's new line of Roca (Rock) tequilas specifically uses only agaves crushed in a traditional volcanic rock wheel mill called a tahona. This is an awfully slow process, compared to modern methods, which is why it's not commonly used. Patron hasn't gone completely off the deep end — machinery is driving the mill, not donkeys — but it's that slowing down of the process that allows distillers to really scrutinize each step.
Patrón has always used some tahona-milled agave in their tequila. The real changes to the process are after maceration: the fiber and juice both are fermented together which are bringing out some very earthy, even mushroom-like flavors. The distiller is also scrutinizing the ABV of each expression, which therefore seems suspiciously even at 44% and still a bit lower than what I prefer to see.
It however is a very suggestible product because of its sheer complexity, certainly in league with some of the most complex tequilas on market. You don't need to look far to find a rich sipping tequila, you just have to be willing to let your wallet take it on the chin.